Checkmate.......A Queen Within

Unusual in the world of the mannequin, I do like a good game of chess to while away long hours posing in the window (sadly not many of my mannequin friends are endowed with the same intellectual qualities). I was most interested then, in the latest project by my dear friends at Proportion London, who have recently created a series of display figures an exhibition within  The World Chess, Hall of Fame in St Louis, Missouri, U.S.

This fascination exhibition does not open until October 2013, however the below images of their press launch give you a sneaky peak at what to expect....

This unique exhibition named ‘A Queen within’ explores the role of the queen within the game and the fashion world. In a game of chess the queen is considered the most powerful and at the same time, the most unpredictable piece. She embodies tradition while simultaneously redefining rules established by a patriarchal system.  This intriguing dichotomy is the inspiration behind the exhibition and the relationship between power, risk-taking, and the queen’s evolving feminine role in chess (and society).    

Produced by an international team of thought-makers, curators, fashion insiders, and chess players. The exhibition focuses on how story telling as well as various archetypes of the queen have constantly captured the imagination of innovative fashion designers. 

Extremely rare pieces from one of the world’s largest private collections of Alexander McQueen’s work will join garments by Gianfranco Ferré, Gucci, Hussein Chalayan, Iris van Herpen, Maison Martin Margiela, Viktor and Rolf and approximately 20 other designers known for their daring work. 

The story of each persona – its powers, its weaknesses, its significance, its sacrifice – is told through examples of fashion, photography, film and artwork.

       

 

The exhibition is open from October 19th 2013 to April 18th 2014 at The World of Chess in St. Louis, Missouri.For more information please visit http://www.worldchesshof.org/exhibitions/exhibit/a-queen-within/

view museum and exhibtion display figures please visit

http://proportionlondon.com/bg2-7-140-MUSEUM-bust-forms 

Creative Clerkenwell

Where the sun was lacking in Clerkenwell the creativity certainly wasn’t during last weeks design festival. For the fourth year running I dusted down my fibreglass knees, put on my pumps and in the interests of keeping you all informed Good Readers, tottered off round ye olde cobbled streets of Farringdon to take a look.

The industrial Farmiloe Building housed an array of leading international interior designers and manufacturers and as usual did not fail to draw a talented bunch. The super fun swing table and geo-shade designed by Duffy London particularly caught my eye and sparked ideas for a fabulous dinner party….

But the fun did not stop there, oh no Dear Reader. In fact this year attracted more newcomers than ever, filling the streets and courtyards with installations and generated a buzzing atmosphere. The House of Detention was jam-packed with cutting edge designs while the Order of St Johns showcased contemporary furniture and decorative collections. Boasting over 60 showrooms and a wealth of creativity, Clerkenwell really is the place to be (thankfully also home to mannequin towers - well could you imagine me living anywhere less inspired … I think not!)

Here are some snaps of my favourite highlights. 

DAVID BOWIE is … in the mannequin workshop.

I make no bones about it darlings - I adore David Bowie in all forms and incarnations. I expect you've been to the wonderful new Exhibition at London's Victoria and Albert Museum by now - so I thought you would like to know the story behind the making of the mannequin on which the costumes were displayed. 

Enduringly iconic and highly influential, the style of David Bowie has always fascinated and enthralled his numerous fans worldwide. Now for the first time, an exhibition dedicated to his chameleon persona has debuted at London’s V&A museum and with a record breaking 67,000 tickets already sold, the ‘David Bowie is’ exhibition is set to become a global phenomenon.

For my chums over at proportion>london it was more than an honour to have been involved in such a ground breaking showcase, working with the organisers on the creation of 54 display figures for the show. In spite of the fact that proportion have a long history of collaboration with the curators of this world respected Museum of art and design, the brief for this project was no less awesome a thought when the commission was revealed late in 2011. Doing justice to such a distinctive and well-loved collection of stage costumes when the eyes of Bowie's fastidious fans know the cut, fold and detail of each piece meant very particular reflection on fit and appropriate visual style. Working alongside the V&A’s Costume Display Specialist, Lara Flecker and taking as a start point proportion>london's already svelte Metropolitan mannequin collection, it soon became apparent from meticulous measurements taken from each garment that a leaner body was called for!

This fact established; renowned mannequin sculptor Rob Patterson was called upon to re-sculpt the figure, keeping the style but refining the shape and size. Toiles; canvas copies of keys outfits were produced to assist in the laborious process of fitting and honing the shape of the clay form, necessary to avoid putting stress on the delicate seams and fabric of some of Bowie's most spectacular outfits. Alongside the figure, the proportion team also worked from a life-cast of Bowie’s face, creating a mask to be mounted over the mannequin’s facial features, reinforcing the projection of Bowie's multi-imaged persona in each set.

From the initial ultra-lean sculpted figure, proportion’s skilled team of technicians cut and crafted each show-figure to the specific position briefed by the V&A’s team, overcoming many visual and technical problems along the way. Stances such as a crouching figure wearing the knitted asymmetric Ziggy Stardust bodysuit from 1972 were particularly challenging, causing proportion’s Head Technician Sam Hoye to concoct an ingenious way to construct and assemble the figure without damaging the costume. Her skills were further tested when presented with a re-sculpt of the feet to fit various higher heeled shoes; although working entirely from measurements and visual reference, the insteps were perfectly matched!

Sculptor Rob Patterson shown at his studio, face to face with the clay and breaking open a mannequin mould

  

The figures finally arrived at the museum during February, leaving just over a month for the exhibition team to layout the sets and

dress the mannequins into their final position. From a vast and inspiring collection of artefacts gathered by the Bowie Archive over many years, those items selected all came together perfectly to form a stunning and memorable showcase – a major credit to the V&A and indeed proportion>london.

  

 various stages of the mannequin production at the proportion>london workshops in north-east London

The DAVID BOWIE IS exhibition runs from March 23^rd until August 11^th 2013 for more information visit http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/exhibitions/david-bowie-is/ 

Final installation of a Kansai Yamamoto bodysuit - Image supplied by © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

More proportion>london projects can be seen at www.proportionlondon.com

Spring collections launch at proportion>london

It's all moving at a pace over at mannequin towers this weekend - the set builders and dressers are in and the new collections are arriving thick and fast.

proportion>london’s newly designed showroom and latest collections are being launched next week on the 16th, 17th and 18th April from 10am – 5pm.

Two brand new collections will be unveiled...
BESPOKE; A mens tailoring range including bustforms, valet stands and accessory presenters and HARLEQUIN KIDS; a range of  cute, full and part-articulated child figures ages 4, 6 and 10 years in a number of finishes. In addition there will also be new poses and accessories adding to the SERIES collection.

On the QT, Miss Mannequin knows that to be sent an invite to the launch call proportion on  +44(0)20 7251 6943  or email design@proportionlondon.com.

I'll be looking out for you and look forward to seeing you for drinks and nibbles! ... I can't wait darlings!

 

SHOWcabinet - what Daphne did next

As you know, I am never one to shy away from a fabulous party Dear Reader, hence why on Wednesday 21^st of February I attended a (not to be missed) launch by the award winning fashion website; SHOWstudio. Held in London’s prestigious Belgravia area in the iconic Pantechnicon Building; I mingled amongst the fashion elite, sipping lusciously refreshing cocktails and brushing bejeweled elbows with the fantastic Daphne Guinness, Gareth Pugh, Nick Knight and Philip Tracey plus many more – but hey who’s counting!

The launch, which celebrated the first installation of SHOWstudio’s latest gallery venture; 'SHOWcabinet'. The first in a series, it's a sort of moderne cabinet of curiosities, which was kick started by Daphne herself, giving us an insight into her own contemporary, romantic vision of the world. Items such as a black leather cage jacket designed by Gareth Pugh, bling-tastic crystal heel-less shoes by Norikata Tatehana, and an 18 carat gold and diamond armour glove made in collaboration with Shaune Leane - this item in particular is the central piece of the installation.

Also on show is a silver sequin Chanel dress and over jacket – of course this instantly caught my eye (there really is nothing else other than a touch of sparkle to make me weak at my fibreglass knees). In complete owe of this stunning number I took a closer look and was delighted to notice that the garment was displayed on a beautiful signature vintage type bust form from my old chums at proportion london (goodness they get everywhere)! Daphers is a darling and the launch was a pleasure to attend, however if unlike moi your name was not on the guest list do not fret my darlings as Daphne’s installation is open until the 20th March and most of the items on view are for sale.

Throughout the year there will be further installations during the SHOWcabinet series including displays from Una Burke and Iris Van Herpen, so do stay tuned for my forthcoming post's since I know i'm going to be on the invite list for all of them! Chin, chin darlings x

SHOWcabinet. Image supplied by SHOWstudio



Daphne Guinness. Image supplied by SHOWstudio.

Gareth Pugh, Nick Knight, Carson McColl. Image supplied by SHOWstudio

Shaun Leane. Image supplied by SHOWstudio

Bella Freud. Image supplied by SHOWstudio

Shoes designed by Norikata Tatehana

Leather cage jacket designed by Gareth Pugh



proportion london bust form showcasing silver sequin Chanel dress

For more information on the SHOWcabinet installation please visit the SHOWstudio blog 

http://showstudio.com/blog/post/daphne_guinness_showcabinet_launches 

For proportion london bust forms and mannequins please visit their website

http://proportionlondon.com/ 

All the young dudes...an explosion of GLAM

Remember a world of twinkling mirrorballs, flared trousers, outlandishly slick hairdos, bisexual caked mascara and eyeliner and an unstoppable cascade of glitter…Miss Mannequin certainly does! Whiling away the hours posing languorously in the coquettish window of Swanky Modes or lurking amongst the potted palms in the mysterious smokey interior of Biba, I have always loved the excess and the exuberence of Glam. With these memories in mind, Dear Reader, I have been thrilled to learn that the Tate Liverpool has just launched an exhibition dedicated to expressing and explaining the decadence of this movement.

Roxy Music's 1972 album "Roxy Music" featuring Kari-Ann Muller, who later went on to model as a mannequin for Adel Roostein's Superstar Collection

Both glamorous and bizarre in equal measures, when thinking of Glam culture, anyone born after 1970 would be forgiven for thinking it was just about the music. Sitting through endless repeats of TOTP2 during the festive period with slightly tipsy older relatives embarrassing themselves recounting (and worse demonstrating) strange school disco style dancing and sing-alongs to T-Rex and Cockney Rebel records, you would inevitably get this impression. But this would be to miss the point of it all completely ….. and where the Tate’s daring exhibition comes in.

Glam! The Performance of Style is the first exhibition to explore glam style and sensibility in-depth. The exhibition focuses on artistic developments in Britain, Europe and North America - seen through the prism of Glam. Examining painting, sculpture, installation art, film, photography and performance, with over 100 artworks on show, the exhibition puts into context what was actually intended to be a lifestyle, rather than an insignificant early 1970’s trend.

Starting out as an underground British Art School scene (think David Hockney, Bryan Ferry, Eno and David Bowie) and coinciding with gay, black and feminine calls for equality, Glam was at its inception intended as a personal expression of individuality, an unveiling of each participant’s sexuality, creativity and particular persona. It had its coming of age around mid-1972 when Mott the Hoople sang their Bowie penned anthem All the Young Dudes on Top of The Pops. After that its camp, sparkly tentacles quickly entwined themeslves around every area of young life. Even the mannequin world succumbed; female window models threw out their bras and exposed an eyeful of perky nipple on mannequins with wildy exuberant poses. Adel Rootstein produced much feted collections using models like the exotic Sayoka and (ex Bryan Ferry girlfriend) Marie Helvin.   

David Hockney's Mr and Mrs Clark and Percy 1970/71

Spearheaded in the world of entertainment so persuasively by Bowie’s Ziggy Stardust, T. Rex, The Glitter Band and Slade, the seductive look of Glam soon swept the nation like an extravagant glittery rash. In the art world the spangly torch was carried by artists such as David Hockney, Bruce McLean, Duggy Fields and Lindsey Kemp, then moving across to America popped up at Andy Warhol’s factory. In design, Biba, Anthony Price, Mr Freedom, Terry DeHavilland and Swanky Modes shimmered. In film and theatre, think Clockwork Orange, The Rocky Horror Picture Show, Derek Jarman and John Waters.



Roxy Music's 1973 album Music for your pleasure - featuring model Amanada Lear dressed in Anthony Price Outfit



The inevitable commercial fallout of Glam soon had every hod carrier nationwide lumbering around on platforms as chunky as yorkie bars and spotty young bank clerks sporting Spiders from Mars style lurex jumpsuits outside the local chip shop on Saturday night. Rock and Roll suicide indeed! Inevitably it had become a teenage uniform, an identikit cliché, fit only for the dressing up box and its savvy early exponents had moved on, morphing into punks, electronica, new romantics, heavy metal bands and David Bowie became, well........David Bowie.

Miss Mannequin is all for this show – gorgeous to look at and surprisingly educational too – what’s not to like. So slip into your disco slacks and head up north for this Liverpool based extravanaga.

 

for more information on the Tate Liverpool Glam! exhibition

for further information on Adel Rootstein mannequin collections

for an informative Guardian Glam timeline

for a list of the Guardians' top 20 Glam Rock songs

post script: it's a big Glam year, Dear Readers. Miss Mannequin can't wait for the opening of DAVID BOWIE IS ... at London's V&A mid March

Mr Selfridge

And so my darling readers, I trust you had a fabulous Christmas and New Year and are looking forward to the year ahead, as am I. I have plenty of exciting projects to report on, all will be revealed in due course so do continue to check my posts regularly.

Being the social butterfly that I am it is rather unusual that one would cosy up in front of the TV at Mannequin

Towers. However there is a riveting ten-part period drama that has had me glued to my seat and taking a dreamy trip down memory lane. ITV recently unleashed Mr. Selfridge onto our Sunday night screens and what a delight it was too! Telling the story of “Mile a Minute” Harry Gordon Selfridge – perhaps the first retail guru in the UK and the importance of his contribution to early 20^th Century retail, visual merchandising and brand marketing.  

In 1909 on the day that Harry Gordon Selfridge first swung his department store doors open, more than 100,000 people scurried through: by the end of the week more than a million had visited.  Harry’s aim was to make everyone feel welcome in his emporium and promoted Selfridges as being “Open to the world”.  The essence of Selfridges revolutionary approach to shopping is maintained by the store today, and much as was the case in 1909, Selfridges windows have become synonymous with the brand and furthermore have become as famous as the company and the Oxford Street location itself.

This period drama perfectly depicts how the store would have been presented in 1909, even the tiniest of details have been researched and replicated (I should know – my auntie Gloria was one of the original store mannequins) – fashionable brass accessory presenters and upholstered bust forms have been carefully selected to mimic the style of that era and were just some of the product that was featured in the first episode. I am happy to say that all the display equipment was either genuine vintage or supplied by my good chums at Proportion London. As the girls of the accessory department hurry to display everything on their glass counter-tops for the 9.00am grand opening, Miss Mannequin squealed with delight at the many Proportion London treats on offer – bag stands, jewellery neck forms, scarf presenters, miniature bodies and wooden articulated hands. These Vintage Style products are hugely popular with today’s retailers – proving that there are some timeless trends worth treasuring…

Similar to Selfridges – Proportion London have a heritage that dates back to the early 20^th century and many of their traditional manufacturing techniques are still employed to this day. Their papier-mâché bust forms and torso’s are still hand-crafted by an artisan team of specialists at the North London

factory in much the same way that they were when Selfridges first opened.  

I obtained a brief interview with Tanya Reynolds, Creative Director of Proportion London. She said; “It is a great honor to have supplied display product for this series and to be featured in what we believe will be one of the best dramas of 2013. The Vintage Style Accessory range was conceived using archive drawings from old directories, Edwardian original samples and we kept in our minds that the collection should look exactly as it would have the day Gordon Selfridge first opened his retail emporium.”

For more details of the Vintage Style collections click on the below links

Vintage Style bustforms

Vintage Style Accessories