Utopian Bodies - fashion looks forward

Darlings, we all know I’m a girl with expensive taste and there’s no disguising my love of fashion, appreciation of style and admiration of good design. Believe me, my bank statement exposes a multitude of said obsessions! But what is it about fashion that makes some of us tick, and what if, in an ideal world, there were possibilities, we had never encountered?? These questions were triggered by the creative duo; Sofia Hedman and Serge Martynov (curator and designer of Utopian Bodies exhibition), when they stopped by Mannequin Towers for tea recently (and of course, some jammy dodgers)!

Sofia and Serge set a brief and discussed the concept of ‘Utopian bodies – fashion looks forward’ exhibition  with Proportion London’s Account Manager, Ashley Backhouse. Excited by the prospect, the Proportion team of craftsmen began producing bespoke figures, some of which were to display unconventional and unique designs. True to the brief, tweaks and innovative amendments were made to some of the bodies: a flashing heart built into a mannequin and cutaway figures which appeared to make the clothing float in mid air.

Wanting to see this one of a kind exhibition with my very own eyes, I jetted to the Liljevachs museum in Stockholm this week. Overwhelmed by the sheer magnificence of the show and fashion in a utopian society. Each gallery takes you on a personal and unique journey while providing a thought provoking experience. To sum up my emotions I left stimulated, profound and much the wiser.  

Regardless of whether you are a fashion junkie or not, we all have a relationship with attire that plays a major part in our lives. Think of clothes as our outer shell, we wake up in the morning and decide what armor to wear that day - a protection if you like. Does this outfit portray me as how I want to be perceived? Does it represent my personality? Or the dreaded question - does my bum look big in this?!!! These are some of the questions we ask ourselves on a daily basis.

But fashion can delve deeper than just the surface and how it affects us as individuals. Take sustainability, technology, and society for example. What if garments could be produced without leaving a carbon footprint? or recycled from household waste? Maybe we could all look away from our phones and focus on our surrounding environment, simply by relying on our clothing to navigate us by a tap on the shoulder, instead of following a phone map?  It is innovations like these that make you re-think fashion and the importance it can hold in our lives.

Throughout this exhibition each gallery was inspired by a utopian ideal, which included innovation, technology, memory, gender identity and love. The show takes a look at the history, evolution and interpretation of fashion, with over 200 garments from luxury brands, high street retailers and Swedish designers, all presented in  beautifully curated space.

Sadly the exhibition ends on the 7^th February 2016, but I am told it will be touring. I send out a clarion call for fellow fashion bunnies,  non-conformists, scientists, designers, children (there’s a fabulous craft area for little peeps to create patchworks, dolls and play fancy dress) to go see if you get the chance. This one will really set you thinking, and dreaming of how fashion can harness a better future….   

Initial meeting at the Proportion London showroom - discussing fabric and eating biscuits!  

Cutaway bodies being developed at the Proportion London workshop 

Costume toiles and fit session at the Proportion London design studio 

Fluid female mannequin with bespoke heart amendments

Sustainability gallery at the Utopian Bodies Fashion Looks Forwards exhibition



Sustainability Gallery - recycled dress

Dress with beading made from glass bottles

3D printed shoes

Hand carved wooden mannequin arms

Carved wooden mannequin arms in detail

Solidarity gallery

Veneer mannequin wigs

Solidarity gallery wall details

Craft and colour gallery

Close up of mannequin details in the craft and colour gallery

Maison Martin Margiela candy bag for H&M

Beauty gallery 

Gender gallery

Gender gallery

Gender gallery

Gender gallery

Change gallery

Change gallery

Change gallery 

Change gallery

Change gallery

Love gallery

For more information on this exhibition click here

For mannequins and bespoke projects please visit my chums at Proportion London  

The three F's!

There is nothing that excites me more than taking to the streets of London in search of the three F's!...fashion, flagship stores and fabulous concepts (something which online shopping will never provide). I was delighted then, when I encountered all three on my latest shopping expedition… 

To kick start my trip I headed to London's prestigious Duke Street, where the brand new, uber cool Duke St. Emporium resides. This new concept store is part of the Jigsaw group and includes a range of Jigsaw clothing alongside a smattering of premium brands from The Shop at Bluebird (Jigsaw’s Chelsea boutique).

The store offers a truly unique shopping experience which I simply adore! You can start off with a coffee at their in-store café (operated by Fernandez and Wells), admire a collection of art, books and installations, browse beauty products which are displayed throughout the store on mid-century furniture, and discover interesting features as you wander through the calm, contemporary and carefully curated interior.

If you have not already been My Darlings, I definitely recommend it. You never know, you may also catch me and my mannequin mates hanging out…surely that alone is a good enough reason to visit? 

 

 

My next stop was a few minutes walk to the new flagship Warehouse store on Oxford street, inspired by the converted warehouses in New York's Meatpacking District. I have to say the design team have done a grand job bringing the concept to life. The mix of exposed brick walls, concrete flooring and mannequins produced from raw fibreglass create an authentic industrial vibe. The shopping experience was a pleasure and hassle free. I comfortably tried on clothes in a spacious fitting lounge filled with scented candles, and I didn’t even have to walk to a till to purchase my new items, as staff were armed with transactional IPads, how terribly modern!

Going a little further afield, my wonderful driver, Mark whizzed me along to Knightsbridge....where I shopped till I dropped – to my articulated knees! Newly opened on the Brompton Road, Karen Millens three-leveled flagship store is complete with a design atelier in the basement where tailor-made garments are produced to order. Large groupings of raw fibreglass mannequins displayed on wooden cubes create a bold impactful statement, drawing customers into the store. The store is jam packed with the brands whole range of clothing, shoes and accessories, but feels spacious, and oozes sophistication with a modern, elegantly refined touch. Hats off to the store designers and Visual team!

Shopping bags a plenty and ball joint ankles feeling weary,  I headed back to mannequin towers, where I later got to thinking about these three brands, and what they have in common.
Their heritage is British based, they each offer a unique feature within their stores, enticing customers with their modern shopping approach and their visual merchandising kit is produced by proportion>london 

Perhaps it's time to say bye-bye to online shopping, step out from behind the screen and get pounding the pavements once again. After all, nothing quite beats the raised pulse and sheer exhilaration of shopping instore...!  

A little something to be going on with!

I've been away for a little time Dear Readers, but now i'm back and have much to catch up on.
Whilst I am preparing my reports for you .. a little light entertainment in the form of Sir Norman Wisdom in one of my favorite all time comedy clips from the 1953 classic British comedy - Trouble in Store.

Norman, a lowly stock clerk at the thinly disguised Burridge's department store, is constantly in trouble with head of the store, Mr. Freeman. He overhears a conversation and misinterprets it as promotion to store windowdresser.

Eager to show off his talents - he soon realises that windowdressing can be a great deal of fun (something we have all known for many years) and of great entertainment to the general public.

Entering into a visual joust with the current upputy Head of Windows (do we see anybody we know here?), the hilarious Wimbledon type tournament ends in a plate smashing riot.

Norman as the maverick windowdresser that we wish we could all be just for one day!

For a collection of similary retro window stands as Burridges have
see the beautifully designed Vintage Style Accessories by proportion>london

I'll take Manhattan!

Darlings...

It really was just too dull (after that wonderful wedding last month) to be sitting around Mannequin Towers moping about failing to catch the bouquet (that Chelsey has sharp elbows, I'll say)! My new beau METROpolitan man, sulked all the way home because Pippa didn't catch his eye at the reception: Well really, what did he expect, with half of Bougies in attendance!

To quell my boredom, I booked a flight to New York to do some retail research and bring you the latest news from the other side of the pond: and Who better qualified as commentator on all things shopping than I? (if only they would make it an Olympic sport, I'd be in with a gold medal chance next Summer)!



Lobby at The Ace Hotel

Staying mid-town, my common-room de jour

was the extremely fabulous Ace Hotel www.acehotel.com/newyork

On track (at 29th and Broadway) and on trend as the hottest room in Manhattan at present, the lobby was the epitome of cool, heaving with arty types blogging, skyping, coffeeing and generally checking each other out. This hub of urban connectivity has the best decorated rooms, 2 great restaurants, coffee shop supreme and two of the best new boutique concepts in NYC now (Project No.8 and Opening Ceremony). 





 



Graffiti walls at the beautifully decorated Ace Hotel



Upon arrival, I hit the ground running; spending four days strolling the streets, sauntering the sidwewalks and checking out...well the checkouts! So, here's my little take on Life in the Big Apple at present.

The most obvious trait Miss Mannequin noted straight off was the serious sting recession has left on the city. Empty shopfronts in previously busy areas alarmed and this I guess is further exacipated by the development of online retail. Conversely, I saw newer retail areas that were positively thriving: lower rents, creative retail concepts and plenty of trendy eateries all contributed. Much like London, the spread of must-see areas sprawls ever wider across Manhattan (and indeed out over the bridges) in a series of connected villages, each a piece of the retail action.



Madison Square Gardens



Interestingly, NYC has never struck me as being a laid back, stress free kind of place. this trip, I was struck by the bike lanes! Yes really...200 miles of them, in prep for a proposed public bike scheme which could start as early as Spring 2012. Secondly, divided off section of avenues, furnished with (alarmingly green) cafe tables and chairs caught my eye. People loved it...they socialised in the sunshine, chatting and laughing and not looking particularly eager to jump for the clock! Was this really clockwatching, time is money New York? This air of laid-backness was further enhanced by the sheer amount of urban art and plantings! Giant coloured metal roses appeared to blow along Park Avenue, a serene elongated head was parked centre of Madison Square Gardens, the Highline (a repurposed train track above the meatpacker district) buzzed with urban sunbathers and small children pic-nicing with their parents! Miss Mannequin was impressed.  







The HighLine - a whole new world above the Meatpacker District

Back in retail-land the stores were far from busy in the traditional old school shopping areas. Staff were uber-attentive and there was not an afternoon that passed where (almost in a synchronised action) wine and cupcakes where whipped out from under a counter at 3pm on the dot. I chanced upon five such parties in three days! I had the impression that an by 5pm the streets would be filled with tipsy women staggering home loaded with totally inappropriate purchases!

Tomorrow I shall give you the Uptown retail round-up and tell you about my trip to the MET (for the Alexander McQueen Retrospective).

until then good evening...or as i believe they say in New York, Hang Loose Dude!



Dressed to thrill....F&M, a Christmas tradition

This week, after completing her epic Christmas card mail out (lucky you, if you received one), Miss Mannequin got in touch with her festive spirit whilst doing a spot of shopping in London's West-end (well Piccadilly actually). 

My charming chauffeur Mark dropped me off at the corner of Fortnum and Mason's (in order that I could pop in for a pudding)! The front windows were of course stunning as always, this year depicting various works of art cleverly brought to life by the store's talented window trimmers. Gorgeous. What also struck me were the breathtaking side windows. I was captivated and entranced by the intricate enchanted forest theme, featuring layer upon layer of clever backdrops, propping and styling which led you on a journey through magical scenes. Look closely and you will find; a mouth watering feast set on a grand table full of epicurean treats, a cosy fireplace and library in the midst of an intricate collection of treasures (concentrate hard and you may even notice a short sighted owl wearing spectacles) and if you are following your map correctly dear reader, you will come across a secret boudoir filled with chic delights that Miss Mannequin would be delighted to find in her Christmas stocking! I telephoned Visual Director Paul Symes to find out more. Apparently, this side run of windows had been designed by his right hand lady, Sallie Greenhill. Working with a very slim budget, she spent four months of sketching, sourcing and prop-building to assemble this visual treat, whilst he concentrated on the art-themed front run. Creatively thought through and with a charming ambience, I feel sure you will agree than Sallie (and of course Paul) has done a fantastic job. Do pop by ... and let me know about other Xmas windows you have found inspiring.

New Change or NO CHANGE?

As you all know, I live on the outskirts of London's busy city area in my glamorous showroom apartment. Live-work was never so stylish, let me tell you! Now, most retailers barely enter the Square Mile (likely traumatised by the fashion faux-pas of suit and trainer city types)! But dear reader, we must all shop!
With this in mind, last month saw the opening of One New Change - a petite shopping mall right on the doorstep of the city. In the interests of keeping you all informed, Miss Mannequin smartly sidestepped the city boys this weekend to inspect this latest adventure in retailing.
On rounding the bend at St Pauls, the facade of the building is indeed inpressive, contrasting rather alarmingly with the stately profile of the cathedral itself. Indeed the adjacency to St Pauls feels most peculiar! Given, if I lived in Milan or Rome I should probably be used to this type of thing. But i do wonder what the clergy make of it (apart from the shortened proximity to an inexpensive prawn sandwich, of course)!

Populated with the usual suspects - mid-range multiple fashion brands, everyones favorite food hall, suit, shirt and city paraphanalia suppliers of every persuasion, the usual small cafes and 2 heavyweight restaurants- Jamie Olivers barbecoa and Gordon on his way soon! Interestingly Jamie has also opened a butchery (is this indicating a new hunter gatherer trend pandering to men? or just an update on the male creche from the usual sports bar)! Whichever, it was very popular. The centre itself was strangely laid out - escalators took you up and into each floor easily enough - but getting out was another thing. Shoppers seemed to be milling around the lifts looking puzzled, as indeed was I, there were no obvious stairs to be located. I eventually escaped in a forgotten lift to the side of  the top floor, wondering what would happen in an evacuation! I generally  thought that New Change would serve a purpose, for that frantic dash for a handbag, tie or baguette at lunchtime, destination, however it was not .......... NEW CHANGE or NO CHANGE.... i ask myself?

New Change Shopping Mall - with spectacular views over St Pauls!